A RARE RETRO SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND 'TUBOGAS' BRACELET, BY BULGARI, CIRCA 1940 The large coiled gold tubogas bracelet, with two spherical terminals highlighted with sapphire cabochons and brilliant-cut diamonds within collet-setting, mounted in 18K gold, indistinct maker's mark, size extendable Accompanied by a certificate of authenticity from Amanda Triossi, author & specialist on Bulgari, former curator of the Bulgari Heritage Collection and curator of all the first major Bulgari retrospective exhibitions from 2009 to 2013, stating that this bracelet was manufactured for and retailed by Bulgari and dates from the 1940s. Certificate dated 9th August 2021, in Rome. A similar tubogas brilliant-cut diamond bracelet by Bulgari illustrated page 98, 'Twentieth-Century Jewelry, Art Nouveau to Modern Design', by Lodovica Rizzoli Eleuteri The iconic flexible gold braid of the Tubogas shape debuted in the 1940s, and has since become a signature of the brand, seen in everything from Bulgari’s bracelets and watches to their rings. In creating the Tubogas, Bulgari took advantage of the great malleability of yellow gold to produce a work of art, revolutionising the concept of movement in jewellery. The Tubogas shape is formed by wrapping long bands of gold around a wood or copper core over several hours of highly skilled craftsmanship. The technique was developed in Italy in the late 1930s and ingeniously mimics industrial gas piping. The origin of its name derives from a clever take on the Italian tubo gas, literally translating as ‘gas tube’. As the bands are coiled, their rounded contours interlock to conceal their inner structure, creating a smooth and fluid finish. The result of such intricate craftsmanship is supple, springy and comfortable, with the sleek and sensual appearance of a serpent’s twist which allows the metal to expand or contract with the shape of the wearers wrist or finger. From the time of its first launch, the creation of the Tubgogas bracelet marked the Roman jewellery house as an innovator. Since then, the continued success of the Tubogas is testament to its flawless design and desirability. This particular piece is a variation of the original Serpenti Tubogas bracelet which emerged in the 1950s, during which time Bulgari began to experiment with more abstract Tubogas pieces. The yellow gold bands are characteristically juxtaposed with unusual colour combinations of contrasting precious gemstones, such as diamonds, sapphires, emeralds or coral. The Serpenti Tubogas and other forms of the Tubogas silhouette continue to be hugely popular today. Despite their many incarnations since the 1940s original bracelets and timepieces, the core craftsmanship of creating such a piece remains exactly the same. Made in the largest jewellery manufacturing facility in Europe at Bulgari’s Valenza workshop, Bulgari have since experimented with different materials to create unique chromatic effects, including yellow gold and white gold or yellow gold and steel alternating on the wrist. Irrespective of what development the Tubogas will move towards next, it remains a beacon of jewellery innovation, a feat of craftsmanship and an integral element of Bulgari’s design identity.