A rare Imperial yellow silk embroidered 'five symbols' unmade robe and trimmings19th century
The Imperial yellow silk finely embroidered in extensive detail with eight silver-faced five-clawed dragons chasing flaming pearls, with the five of the Twelve Symbols of Imperial Power: Sun, Moon, Axe, Fu, and the Constellation in two groups on the back, all among a ground of Buddhist emblems, bats, shou roundels, and five coloured-clouds, above a mass of foaming waves interspersed with coral, conch shells and other auspicious symbols, the silk cut to shape but unmade-up, accompanied by collar and cuff trimmings, all finely embroidered with trailing lotuses on the dark blue ground.
151cm (59 1/2in) long (4).注脚Traditionally, the Twelve Symbols of Imperial Authority were for the Emperor's exclusive use, although it is thought that he may have, on occasion, granted to distinguished individuals the right to use them as a sign of Imperial favour. There are a number of robes in public and private collections around the world, which bear a number, but not all of the Imperial Symbols.

Most of the known 'five symbols robes' are on green ground, rather than yellow, which would have implied use by secondary consorts rather than Empresses. The further unusual feature on the present robe is the presence of the full seven-point Constellation Ursa Maior in two groups at the back, which is a rare feature generally worn at Imperial ceremonies.

From the mid-late Qing Dynasty we see Empresses wearing robes bearing the Imperial Symbols: Empress Xiaoshurui, Emperor Jiaqing's consort, is known to have worn robes bearing five of the Imperial Symbols after the death of her Imperial husband, and Dowager Empress Cixi is known to have worn 'five symbols robes' during the reigns of Tongzhi and Guangxu. It is therefore likely that the present robe would have been designed for her use.

A similar unmade-up robe on yellow silk, bearing the same five symbols but modern trimmings, was sold in our San Francisco rooms, Fine Asian Works of Art, 18 Dec 2017, lot 951. A complete yellow robe, showing the same five Imperial symbols as the present lot, was sold in Bonhams, San Francisco, Fine Asian Works of Art, 16 December 2014, lot 8253.