A ruby and diamond brooch/pendant, circa 1940


Designed as a highly sculptural flower, the undulating petals pavé-set throughout with brilliant and single-cut diamonds, with two central scrolls set with single and baguette-cut diamonds leading to a detachable cluster of oval-cut rubies forming the stamen, mounted in platinum and gold, diamonds very approximately 6.50 carats total, French import marks, replacement brooch and pendant fittings, length 5.8cm
|Although unsigned, the highly sculptural design of this brooch bears comparison with the work of Paul Flato, Fulco di Verdura and William Ruser. See in particular, the undulating three-part ruby and diamond rococo clip suite, designed by Verdura for Flato, that featured in the 1938 edition of Harper's Bazaar and was later owned by Hollywood star, Joan Crawford. LiteratureBray, Elizabeth Irvine, Paul Flato, Jeweler to the Stars, Woodbridge, Suffolk, United Kingdom; Antique Collectors Club, 2010, pp. 77-130.Proddow, Penny, Healy, Debra, Fasel, Marion, 'Hollywood Jewels: Movies, Jewelry, Stars', Harry N. Abrams, Inc., New York, 1996, pp. 107 and 152.